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For the mostly poor, indigenous families of Guatemala's central highlands, access to productive farmland — and lucrative agricultural markets — is a first step out of poverty.
Guatemala April 2, 2008 11:34PM
It Begins With Land
Website, Content and Services Team Manager
To most rural Guatemalans, land means everything.
Despite a growing economy and the Mercedes and Jaguars cruising the streets of the capital, millions of Guatemalans still live in homes made of mud and walk hours to tend farms for little pay. The country is, in fact, overwhelmingly poor: by some accounts, about 80 percent of the population lives in poverty, with two-thirds of those living in extreme poverty. One reason for this is that fertile land in Guatemala — the most important means of production in an agricultural economy — is concentrated in the hands of a few. It's been reported that roughly 2 percent of the population owns 70 percent of the country's productive farmland.
On a trip to Guatemala last November, I spent my first couple of days exploring how this inequity of land came to be and what keeps it from changing. In interviews with lawyers, government officials and land-reform advocates in Guatemala City, I learned about the Spanish conquistadores who literally entitled themselves to traditional Mayan lands; about the non-functional land registry that favored the educated classes and led to overlapping property boundaries; about how the country's 36-year civil war exacerbated unequal land distribution; about the land reform commitments that were passed as part of the 1996 Peace Accords; and about how today those legally mandated reform efforts are advancing only in fits and starts.

Photo: Nathan Golon for Mercy Corps
Conflicts over land erupted in the wake of Central America's coffee crisis, which began in 2000. Prices for the bean plummeted, forcing many Guatemalan coffee plantations to shut down. Unemployment spiked and many workers were expelled from their homes on the plantations — which included the lands they planted to feed their families.
Facing the loss of everything they knew, some communities simply refused to leave. They occupied farms, demanding access to land and retroactive wages and pensions. Violent altercations with police and land owners often ensued.
The highest number of these confrontations occurred in Alta Verapaz, one of Guatemala's 22 departments — administrative districts equivalent to U.S. states. Alta Verapaz is located in north-central Guatemala and is home to some of the country's largest coffee and cardamom farms. More than 76 percent of its 1 million people — most of whom are indigenous Q'echi' — live in poverty.
Since 2003, Mercy Corps has been working with local partners in Alta Verapaz to peacefully resolve conflicts over land. Our approach has been lauded as a model for "integrated land-conflict mediation" — one that combines conflict mediation between landowners and indigenous workers, support to help newly landed communities organize a profitable farming system, and advocacy for land reform at various government levels.
After more than two years, approximately 270 cases have been peacefully negotiated, with 142 of those fully resolved.
One of the first was a community called Nuevo Amanacer. It's featured in the two-part "Land and Opportunity" video in this section. The agreement we brokered required 27 families to compensate the owner for a portion of his land — which in turn required them to figure out how to make the land feed more than their own families.
Beginning in 2005, Mercy Corps, with the support of The Phoenix Fund, began helping eight communities — including Nuevo Amanacer — with planning, land management, crop diversification and marketing. Communities that once grew only beans or corn for their own subsistence, and maybe dabbled in a little bit of a cash crop like coffee or cardamom, received support to grow pineapple, honey, bananas and other produce for sale. Early results are encouraging. In a 2007 survey of participants, farmers growing pineapples and raising bees saw their household incomes rise by 40 percent.
In 2007, Mercy Corps advanced this strategy another step by forming the Inclusive Market Alliance for Rural Entrepreneurs, a project designed to help rural farmers benefit from the rapid growth of supermarkets in Latin America. The Alliance will inject $2.2 million worth of assistance into 20 communities to help them grow high-value crops such as pineapples, tomatoes and onions. Mercy Corps' partners include Fundación ÁGIL, Wal-Mart CentroAmerica and USAID.
The communities Mercy Corps works in are poor. Most families live in mud houses lacking electricity or running water. But the farmers there today sound less like down-and-out economic castoffs and more like new entrepreneurs eager to take control of their own financial futures. Mercy Corps is also supporting women in their efforts to contribute to the family's bottom line. We spoke with some learning to become beekeepers who were happy to break free of their traditional family roles and to help send their kids to school and pay for medical care.
The third component of the project, political advocacy, is no less critical. Mercy Corps promotes efforts to raise awareness of agrarian issues at the local and national levels, with the goal of supporting a fair and workable land-registration system.
A foundation in health
Our work in Guatemala began with a different challenge in Alta Verapaz: the lack of quality healthcare.
In the late 1990s, Mercy Corps was invited to Tucurú, a very traditional Guatemalan town of 21,000 mostly indigenous residents a couple of hours' drive from Cobán, by a Portland family foundation who asked us to reinvigorate the health center they'd founded. Not only had it fallen into disrepair, but it had failed to attract Tucurú's overwhelmingly indigenous population. In 2001, Mercy Corps hired two Q'echi' women to serve as 'cultural brokers' — go-betweens for the mostly Spanish-speaking staff and the mostly Q'echi'-speaking visitors. The job went beyond translating language to lobbying patients to have faith in outside clinicians and exhorting doctors to trust the Q'echi' people's long reliance on herbal tonics.
The hospital's turnaround sparked further investments in healthcare. Today, throughout Alta Verapaz, maternal and child health programs are strengthening the capacity of the indigenous Q'echi' and Poq'omchi' people to monitor their own health status and provide health services in collaboration with local organizations, health practitioners and government health officials.
Our Community Health and Microcredit program currently helps more than 15,000 people in Tucurú, most of whom are women and children. Women in small villages are using loans to raise pigs, tend chickens and run small tiendas selling snacks, staple foods and toiletries. Another health-related project, funded by Tazo Tea, builds health clinics, latrines and pharmacies, and helps communities improve their farming practices and create new economic opportunities through forest-protection plans, beekeeping, and other initiatives.
Two other health programs help to form and train representative Municipal Health Commissions to improve local healthcare systems, and to deliver health services directly to remote villages, in conjunction with the Ministry of Health and Social Assistance.
As part of these health initiatives, Mercy Corps organized Jovenes 4 Peace, an impressive group of young people in Tucurú. Over the last two years, they've organized a host of high-energy activities and events to educate their peers and their community about HIV/AIDS. A video capturing the energy and imagination of these youth appears in this section.
Their accomplishments are all the more impressive because of their circumstances: they are severely disadvantaged by the mere fact of growing up indigenous in rural Guatemala. The cost of education beyond sixth grade is out of reach for the vast majority of these kids, job opportunities are slim, and day's worth of earnings from manual labor is equivalent to only the price of a bus ticket to the city.
What ties these programs together is opportunity — the opportunity for rural Guatemalans, most of whom are part of marginalized ethnic communities, to access the education, healthcare and economic tools they need to escape poverty.
And for most, it begins with land.
Guatemala April 2, 2008 11:34PM
Part 1: Owning the Land
Independent Filmmaker and Photographer
Guatemala April 3, 2008 11:34PM
Part 2: Tilling the Soil
Independent Filmmaker and Photographer
Guatemala April 2, 2008 11:34PM
Worth The Wait
Website, Content and Services Team Manager

In Guatemala, non-functioning land registries mean many families don't know who owns the land they reside on and tend. To indigenous Mayan families who revere the land and depend on it for their sustenance, ownership is paramount. Mercy Corps and our partner, an association of land lawyers, studied maps and reviewed legal claims that eventually helped 80-year-old Victor Manuel Tut and hundreds of his neighbors purchase land they now know is theirs. Photo: Nathan Golon for Mercy Corps
Alta Verapaz, Guatemala — Machetes are ubiquitous here in rural Guatemala, and Valeriano wields his expertly as he slashes away at weeds on his hillside field. The fast-growing, unwanted grasses are threatening to strangle his maturing pineapple plants — fruits that he hopes will raise his family's fortunes.
Valeriano belongs to the Asocación Campesinos para el Desarollo Agropecuario Sechaj, or ACDAS, a self-help agricultural cooperative of indigenous farmers who live in the lowlands near where Alta Verapaz touches Mexico. Last November, the 44-year-old farmer planted 30,000 pineapple seeds on one manzana of land, a Guatemalan unit of measurement that equals roughly 1.75 acres.
Ten other association members also planted pineapple seeds, which were provided by Mercy Corps as part of a program to boost farming incomes by selling high-value pineapples directly to major fruit processors in Guatemala's capital. Seed money for the project came from Mercy Corps' Phoenix Fund, which finances startup costs for innovative market solutions to poverty.
Growing for large commercial markets is a new concept for most indigenous farmers, including those in Sechaj. Rural Alta Verapaz is populated largely by poor, undereducated Mayans shunned by the country's dominant political and economic interests. Most are subsistence farmers who only dabble in cash crops such as coffee or cardamom.
"Before we just grew beans and corns for our own tables," says Valeriano. "But Mercy Corps gave us the training and the seeds to grow pineapples, and will help us commercialize it."
Pineapple cultivation requires constant attention over many months. The plants absorb nutrients from their spiny leaves rather than the soil, so weeds — which sprout quickly in Guatemala's lush soil — must be cut back frequently.
Valeriano says he spends 15 days each month clearing the land, and two days a month fertilizing the fruit.
His crop won't be ready until next spring; the first fruits require 18 months to mature, while subsequent plantings need only 12 months before harvest. When ripe, the pineapples will be picked and shipped to Guatemala City, where they'll be juiced or sliced and readied for supermarket shelves.
Valeriano hopes to use the profits to help put the youngest of his nine children through school. His 11-member family squeezes into a two-room home that lacks water, electricity and a floor; a couple of dogs and some chickens roam outside.
"In these rural areas, 90 percent of families can't put their kids through school — there aren't sufficient resources," says the agricultural association's president, José María Ical. "Our hope with these pineapples is to educate our kids."
Guatemala April 2, 2008 11:34PM
Video: What Youth Can Do
Website, Content and Services Team Manager
In the remote Guatemalan countryside, Mercy Corps is working with an impressive group of young people to educate their peers and their community about HIV/AIDS.
Jovenes 4 Peace is part of our efforts to increase health services in Tucurú — efforts that are financed largely by a Portland family foundation that also supports similar Mercy Corps programs in Honduras.
The HIV rate in this part of Guatemala is tiny, but the risks of infection are sure to climb as a new road is built connecting Tucurú to the coast. But in addition to raising awareness about an important issue, these youth — remarkable in both the challenges they face and the promise they show — are discovering things about themselves and their potential to effect change.
Guatemala April 2, 2008 11:34PM
Won in Translation
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In 2001, Mercy Corps hired Carmelina and another woman to serve as "cultural brokers" — go-betweens for the mostly Spanish-speaking staff and the mostly Q'eqchi-speaking visitors. Photo: Nathan Golon for Mercy Corps
On any given morning, the spotless health center in tiny Tucurú, Guatemala is abuzz with activity. Carmelina Botzoc is a big reason why.
In the late 1990s, Mercy Corps was asked to reinvigorate the center by its founders, Jack and Marie Eiting. Not only had it fallen into disrepair, but it had failed to attract Tucurú's overwhelmingly indigenous population.
Mercy Corps immediately made several high-visibility improvements. The grounds were spruced up, and the hospital was scrubbed and equipped with up-to-date technology. Bathrooms were modernized; the pharmacy was stocked full.
But things didn't truly begin to turn around until the hospital, which had alienated many locals, made a change that essentially dusted off the welcome mat.
In 2001, Mercy Corps hired Carmelina and another woman to serve as "cultural brokers" — go-betweens for the mostly Spanish-speaking staff and the mostly Q'eqchi-speaking visitors. The job went beyond translating language. For example, Carmelina found herself lobbying patients to have faith in outside clinicians and exhorting doctors to trust the Q'eqchi people's long reliance on herbal tonics.
"For the local population, seeing people dressed like them and speaking their language gave them more confidence," says Carmelina, 36. "The changes have been great: people are making better decisions about their health, recognizing danger signs and coming here when they need to."
She's also been heavily involved with a Mercy Corps youth program, Jovenes 4 Peace, which has organized a group of indigenous teens to educate their peers and their community about HIV/AIDS.
Carmelina says she's always had an interest in helping people in her community. Even before joining Mercy Corps, she'd worked for 13 years as a volunteer health promoter with the government while she raised her five children, the youngest of whom is now 9. "I enjoy the satisfaction I get from supporting people in the community, from helping them emotionally," she says.
Soon she'll be able to help even more. After starting at Mercy Corps with a sixth-grade education, she's two more years of weekend classes away from becoming a nurse. It's a grueling schedule: She rises at 4 a.m. every Saturday for three hours of buses to the university followed by 12 hours of classes.
But when she graduates, she'll be one of the region's few female Q'eqchi nurses — she knows of only one other. And surely it will be partly because of her that others will follow.
Guatemala April 2, 2008 11:34PM
Earning Money and Respect
Website, Content and Services Team Manager

In Guatemala, non-functioning land registries mean many families don't know who owns the land they reside on and tend. To indigenous Mayan families who revere the land and depend on it for their sustenance, ownership is paramount. Mercy Corps and our partner, an association of land lawyers, studied maps and reviewed legal claims that eventually helped 80-year-old Victor Manuel Tut and hundreds of his neighbors purchase land they now know is theirs. Photo: Nathan Golon for Mercy Corps
Tucurú, Guatemala — Even after three days of small-business training and a 78-dollar loan, Maria Reyes had her doubts. Apart from her household chores, the 48-year-old mother of ten had never been given so much responsibility. How was she ever going to operate a tienda from her hillside home in this remote countryside?
"I worried a lot in those days," Maria admits. "I was scared because I had a loan I needed to pay back."
But each month, she paid back 38 Quetzales (about US$5) of the loan that was guaranteed by other members by others in her women's solidarity group. And soon she began earning even more.
Maria is one of 400 women in Guatemala's central highlands who are learning how to manage small shops, weave colorful clothing and take care of chickens, pigs and cows — all of which are contributing to their families' bottom line.
For these women, it's a chance to break the cycle of exclusion and poverty — to break traditional gender barriers and take their family's financial future into their own hands. Most indigenous women in Alta Verapaz are illiterate and don't speak Spanish. School was never a priority; they were brought up to perform domestic chores, marry young and raise their own children.
Expanding a Health Strategy
Back in 2001, Mercy Corps and the Jack and Marie Eiting Foundation, in partnership with the Guatemalan health ministry, developed a program to improve maternal and infant health in 30 Tucurú communities. By 2004, they decided to expand their work to uproot rural poverty, according to Dr. Rafael Carranza, manager of Mercy Corps' Community Health and Microcredit Project.
Poverty in the Tucurú region of Guatemala remains stubbornly entrenched. Most families still rely on simple subsistence agriculture, growing corn, beans and chili peppers to feed their family. Farm workers don't fare much better. Although Guatemala's economy grew in the early part of the decade, minimum salaries have stayed the same while prices rose. Rural families in particular have fallen further behind.
A 2005 expansion of Mercy Corps' program extended coverage to all Tucurú communities, promoted reproductive health and family planning, initiated HIV/AIDS awareness and prevention activities — and launched a women's microcredit program.
The idea was to empower women to help lift family incomes by launching small-scale enterprises that were culturally acceptable and environmentally friendly. Sixteen loan solidarity groups were formed, each with between 15 and 40 women. The groups participated in trainings about market research, loans, costs of doing business, and how to register their enterprise.
Recently, internal assessors conducted five focus-group discussions and 17 individual interviews and found:
- Recipients reported improved levels of self-confidence as the result of their management capacity.
- All the interviewees stated they have gained a greater decision-making role within their families.
- Ninety-four percent say the additional income has enabled them to improve the education and nutrition of their children.
What's more, the women have proved to be worthy creditors: less than 3 percent of loans are in default.
Growing a Business
Not being able to pay off the loan was Maria's chief worry in August 2005, when she chose to open a small food stand to serve the scattered families of her village. Her husband and her sons work on the large plantations nearby, and on their own land they grow a little bit of coffee and cardamom, and beans and corn. "We made very little money," she says.
Her husband walled off a portion of their modest mud-walled home, making essentially a attached kiosk that enabled Maria to sell goods out of an open window. From there she sells food staples such as sugar, salt, ham, pasta, sodas, and ingredients for making tortillas.
A little more than two years after her first sale, what she makes from the tienda exceeds what her husband takes home from his work. "I used the profits to buy more stock and to buy things like sugar and coffee for the family."
It's a line of work that suits her well, she says. "I'm content. No one gives me orders. The only thing I'm thinking about now," she says, "is more capital."
Spoken like a true entrepreneur.
